Wednesday, August 15, 2012
Vogue Knitting Fall 2012 30th Anniversary Issue
I know I have said this before, but I am always excited when the new issue of VK is about to hit the news stands. The sneak peek is up on the Vogue Knitting Website. This is the 30th anniversary issue and it looks fabulous!
My sweater, the "Striped Turtleneck" is part of the Wanderlust Collection. The sweater is a short sleeve standard fitting turtleneck with a mesh top, eyelet band, and center cable. The yarn is the lovely and soft Brae Tweed by Knit one, Crochet Too. The yarn is smooth and has a nice drape, but still shows stitch definition and cables nicely. I love the heathered colors they chose. The weight is such that you could wear the sweater by itself in the autumn, and layer it for the winter. It is a relatively quick knit that could be finished just in time for the cooler days ahead.
What is on your needles now? Are you knitting with an eye towards the fall, or you enjoying crisp cotton and silk as the temperatures are still so high? Please share; I love your stories!
Sunday, July 29, 2012
Optimal Outcome Part 2
I hope everyone is enjoying their summers. It is so hot around here, and I am still pulling out my shawl from time to time- in the air conditioning, not outside. :)
I just wanted to share another tip that I recently started to implement. Anything to make our finished work look better!
As I mentioned in this post, I am a row counter. I also am a locking stitch marker addict (more
on that later!) and use them religiously to keep track of increases and
decreases.
Clover Markers |
Knit PicksMarkers |
Does that seem like too much effort? Maybe, but nothing is worse than
trying to backtrack and figure out how to make 2
pieces match later. Trying to count rows to match shaping on dark or intricate fabric is so hard.
I used to place my markers at the beginning of an increase
or decrease row.
The more shaping, the further in you need to go to find an unbroken column of stitches |
If you look at a piece that has shaping elements- decreases,
bind offs, or increases, such as a waist, underarm or collar, you will notice
that it is jagged or slanted and hard to tell later where the adjoining row begins.
I now place my row marker about 10 sts in from the edge, on each shaping row. This way, as I continue to shape the piece, I can isolate a
column of stitches far enough away from the edge that I can keep track of rows
easily.
See how the straight line of markers is easier to count.
So simple, but such a time saver later.
What do you do to make sure your pieces match?
Saturday, July 14, 2012
A Knitter's Daydream
Nantucket Island is the epitome of an American needlework paradise. Nantucket is historically rich with traditions in crafts such as basketweaving, knitting, rug hooking, and needlepoint. It is no wonder that needlework legends Claire Murray and Erica Wilson chose to open their successful businesses on this gorgeous island. From the scent of the salty air intermingled with the fragrance of abundant cottage garden flowers, to the breath taking views of the turbulent Atlantic Ocean, Nantucket is singularly inspirational. I would love to be there right now, relaxing and pulling my knitting project out of my bag ...
Perfect summer weight
yarn Allegoro by Classic Elite Verde Collection
Thursday, June 28, 2012
Rib and Bobble Vest, VK Early Fall 2012
The Vogue Knitting Magazine Early Fall 2012 preview
is now online. I am always excited to get my first glimpse of a new issue, and
this issue has some lovely pieces that would make great summertime knitting
projects.
VK Early Fall 2012 |
I designed and knitted Garment # 21, the “Rib and Bobble” vest.
This vest is really a simple knit as there is minimal shaping, and the
seed stitch edgings are knit at the same time as the vest, so there is almost
no finishing at the end of the project. Much of the
vest is knit in stockinette which is perfect for an “on the go” project. The waist area ribbed section looks far more
complicated than it really is! The yarn
I used was Blue Sky Alpacas Sportweight,
and it is so soft.
Rib and Bobble Vest Vogue Knitting Early Fall 2012, photo by Rose Callahan |
My vest is shown as part of a feature on “twin sets” and it is paired with a turtleneck
designed by the brilliant and multi -talented Lori Steinberg. I love her juxtaposition of
delicate and bold geometric openwork patterns.
I always find that "longer" short sleeve length to be very flattering, and I think that
the ribbed turtleneck provides a nice contrast to the airy lace.
#24 Lace Turtleneck Vogue Knitting Early Fall 2012, photo by Rose Callahan |
Don’t be afraid of the bobbles. They are not difficult, and
add such wonderful texture. I used my
favorite variation in this pattern- really more of a popcorn than a
bobble. I find this variation is the
easiest for most knitters as the bobble is completed immediately instead of on
the next row. Because the loops are
pulled over each other one at a time, it is easier than trying to knit through
5 loops at once.
As much as I love to knit heavy, complicated, stranded wool sweaters, I like to have a lighter project to work on during the summer. Vests, like tank tops are great multi- season wardrobe
boosters. They are quick to knit, use relatively little yarn, and are portable
to knit. Perfect for those stolen minutes
at the beach or pool!
What are you knitting this summer? Please share- I’d love to
hear!
Sunday, June 24, 2012
A Knitter's Daydream
Couture pool wear: Missoni Dresda Zigzag Dress
Shopping:
Salvatore Ferragamo Vara Kitten Heel Bow Pumps
Prada Saffiano Lux Double Zip Tote
Yarn and Magazine: Lana Grossa
Enjoying: Limoncello
Monday, June 11, 2012
Optimal outcome - Knitting Pieces that Match
Sometimes it is the easiest things that make a knitted project successful.
Have you ever tried to sew 2 pieces of knitted
fabric together only to find that they don’t match, or picked up a piece of knitting and been unable to figure out where you left off? Yikes.
I am a confirmed
row counter. Logically, it is easier to mirror the shaping on the back and
front of a garment if you start decreasing or increasing on the same row. The same goes for pattern elements like
cables. Keeping track of where you are is important enough
in an easy pattern, but is imperative in a more complex one. And, trust
me, “eyeballing” your work in progress will never give you a perfect
measurement!
Unfinished Dale of Norway sweater . The white stitches on the left are "row counting" stitches. |
When I first started to knit, I remember using bulky
cylinders with rotating numbers that fit on to the ends of straight needles. The objective was to advance the number 1
time each time you completed a row. The
problem was, I could never remember whether or not I had actually turned the
wheel at the end of the previous row! And, I could never get used to the
feeling of having something hanging from the end of my needles. The constant uncertainty and the fact that I
have not knit with straight needles in years led me to try other methods. I have a very methodical friend who carries a
memo pad and writes tally marks down for each row. I know knitters who swear by the invention
of another friend, the row counter bracelet.*
Basting to mark your stitch count |
Simple basting works
the best for me. I use a large tapestry
needle and a piece of smooth mercerized cotton yarn that contrasts in color
with my knitting. Cotton will usually not leave fibers behind and “shed” onto
my knitting. I try to use a light color
for visibility, and colorfastness. I
actually often keep the basting thread in when I wet block my work, although of
course I would be careful not to leave strong cotton in if my work was
fuzzy, felting or delicate! I attach the
yarn at the bottom of my work and use a large tapestry needle because the blunt tip helps minimize the risk of pulling and split stitches. I use the tip of my needle to count up 10 stitches,
and run a stitch under the 10th stitch.
Each line indicates a group of 10 rows |
I continue in this manner until I am
finished counting. When I am finished
basting, I always re count to confirm that I have blocks of 10. Even though this may seem like an added
step, at least I always know that the underarm will be in the same place on the
front and back of a garment, and that the sleeves will be the same length. (Don’t ask me how I know this!)
Since I always have a tapestry needle in my
knitting bag, it is easy enough to do. And, when you unearth that unfinished
object you had forgotten about(blushing!)it is much easier to continue if you
know exactly where you left off. How do
you keep track of your stitches?
Wednesday, May 16, 2012
A Knitter's Daydream
Lysoen was the summer residence of famed violin virtuoso Ole Bull.
Knitting in Art by Annemor Sundbo at Schoolhouse Press
Dale Falk yarn at Woolybaabaa
*Syttende Mai, May 17th is the day Norwegians celebrate the signing of their constitution.
Saturday, May 12, 2012
Just in time for Mother's Day!
Happy Mother’s Day everyone!
I was really excited to get a surprise in the mail the other day. It contained my copy of 60 More Quick Baby Knits, published by Sixth and Spring books.
I was really excited to get a surprise in the mail the other day. It contained my copy of 60 More Quick Baby Knits, published by Sixth and Spring books.
Photographed by Jack Deutsch |
I have 3 designs
in the book. I couldn’t wait to
peek. I love to see how the garments
look photographed, and I always love the way the pictures are styled. It takes quite a bit of time from the time I submit the garments until the books are published, so I always feel like I am looking at the sweaters for the first
time. I LOVE knitting for babies,and my boys are well out of the baby stage
so this project was so much fun. Baby
clothes are a terrific way to try out new techniques, or new yarn without
spending too much time or money. I have
to say I was so pleasantly surprised with the Cascade 220 Superwash sport yarn that was used in the book, that I tried to
track some down recently for another project.
The colors were rich and varied, and the yarn had a smooth, almost
cottony feel. None of these sweaters would ever make a baby feel “itchy". My
patterns are #29 Apple Tree Sweater,
#32 Parisian Cardigan, and #46 Argyle vest.
|
The Apple
Tree sweater and the Parisian Cardigan
both have some duplicate stitch embellishment, which is an easy way to liven up
plain stockinette. The Parisian Cardigan
has a Peter Pan collar.
Photographed by Jack Deutsch |
The Argyle Vest
is actually not constructed as a “true” argyle which is intarsia knit with
bobbins. Instead the diamond pattern is made in a fair isle technique so that
there are only 2 colors used in each row.
Much simpler. I also deliberately
placed a few plain stitches in between the front and back of the vest, so that
extra stitches could be added to increase the width, without having to worry
about the continuity of the argyle.
Photographed by Jack Deutsch |
Photographed by Jack Deutsch |
Do you enjoy baby knitting? Let me know- I'd love to hear about your tiny projects!
Wednesday, May 9, 2012
A Knitter's Daydream
from Vogue Knitting, Spring/Summer 2011
*Not only is the bag great looking, look at this...
Saturday, May 5, 2012
Unwound part III
Your mother/ grandmother/ yarn store owner/ Elizabeth
Zimmerman was right- always make sure you have purchased enough yarn in
the same dye lot…
When I looked last week at the Ravelry page about the Icarus shawl I laughed when I saw the
following sentence...
As a designer, I know how important a precise yardage
measurement is. I carefully track the yarn
that I use as I knit a project, and write down how many balls/skeins I go
through as I am working.
I am sure that most knitters reading my previous posts about
running out of yarn wondered why I didn’t
follow that simple rule and buy enough yarn to finish my blue Icarus shawl to begin with.
Honestly, it was so
long ago, I don’t remember. I think I
bought all the yarn that came in the “Beach Fog” colorway. I thought I checked the pattern and planned accordingly,
although, at the time, I was not that experienced at lace shawl knitting. I
definitely had a large tangle of unusable wool left. For whatever reason, I ran short.
Please
note that the yardage in both of Interweave's printed versions is
underestimated for the average knitter.
Is that what happened? I don’t recall, but maybe it lets me
off the hook!
© Vogue Knitting/Rose Callahan |
But, yardage can be a grey area. When I design a sweater I always knit at
least one gauge swatch in stockinette, and one for each pattern that is in the
garment. Sometimes I knit the swatches
using more than one needle size. I make
relatively substantial size swatches, and block them. So, when I account for how much yarn I use, I
am accounting for the project and the swatches, as well as any mistake knitting
; ) that occurs along the way. Generally speaking, the amount of yarn I
record should be generous enough for most knitters to easily finish a
project.
Even so, problems still arise. More than once I have had to break into a new
skein of yarn to finish a project that is only missing a few rows. That is not usually a significant problem if
the yarn is sold in small skeins. But, what happens when the yarn is a lace weight
thread sold only in 700 yard hanks, or a pricey yarn like cashmere? I know that when I designed the LILY
PATTERNED MITTENS for the Vogue Knitting magazine Winter 2011/2012 issue, I
literally used up every bit of the beautiful yarn* and actually unraveled my
swatch to complete them. VK made mention
of that fact in the printed directions.
Sometimes yarn manufacturers even repackage and change the
amount of yarn put up in a skein.
So now I try to buy extra, I check pattern pages for errata,
and I cross my fingers…
*Jade Sapphire Exotic Fibers Mongolian Cashmere
4-Ply in #43 classic purple
Wednesday, May 2, 2012
Sunday, April 29, 2012
Unwound Part II
The story of a forlorn mess of yarn and a happy ending.
While on vacation* 4 or 5 years ago in
North Myrtle Beach , South Carolina we took a drive to Pawleys Island. Despite the groaning from my boys in
the backseat I naturally had an ulterior motive - a yarn store! Island Knits is a lovely store, and I was immediately
smitten by the gorgeous Dream in Color Baby
wool. I purchased all of the yarn they had in the colorway "Beach Fog" and it
was just enough for my project. The blue and aqua hand dyed colors were the
perfect reminder of a great family vacation at a beautiful shore. The shawl- Miriam L. Felton’s Icarus was one of my
first forays into the world of lace knitting.
©Interweave Knits
|
It took many false starts and a ridiculous amount of ripping and re-knitting. But, I persevered and finished much of the easily memorized pattern with in a relatively short period of time. (Sometimes I think it is good to try a new technique while on vacation because I don’t usually have anything other projects with me, so I force myself to work with what I have.) Icarus is a great beginner lace pattern because it is reasonably simple and the construction becomes apparent within a short period of time. By the time I was back at home, I only had a little left to knit.
Ball "Collapse" |
I called around to all of the local stores and internet stores I knew, and none of them carried the yarn. Don’t you hate that heart sinking feeling? I then went to my local yarn store to see what I could do. Sharon, the owner of CreativeKnitworks calmed me with great news. Apparently there is a way that shop owners can fulfill orders from each others inventory. Within days, and for a very reasonable cost, the yarn was on the way to me.
Now, this was a hand dyed yarn, and I knew the dye lots were
not the same, but I was happy to take anything I could get.
You may not be able to tell that there are a variety of colors in this yarn. It didn't photograph very clearly. The yarn ranges from blue to soft gold to violet and aqua. Lovely. |
At first, this bothered me because, of course, a mismatched edge was not part of my original plan for this piece.
But, I’ve come to appreciate the contrast, and now even
think it adds a little life to the shawl.
*Please don’t think that I travel all over, buying awesome
lace yarn from beautiful destinations and whipping up lovely shawls
regularly. I wish. ; )
** I tried for hours to no avail to unsnarl the yarn, but it was getting frayed and felted and I finally threw in the towel.
** I tried for hours to no avail to unsnarl the yarn, but it was getting frayed and felted and I finally threw in the towel.
Valuable lessons learned:
Never pull laceweight yarn from the center of a skein.
Your mother/
grandmother/ yarn store owner/ Elizabeth Zimmerman was right- always make sure you have purchased
enough yarn in the same dye lot…
(more on that later!)
Wednesday, April 25, 2012
Sunday, April 22, 2012
Unwound
A ball winder and umbrella swift have been high on my wish
list for many years. Is there anything more
inspiring than seeing perfect little yarn “cakes” lined up ready to become
something wonderful?
I love the way yarn
streams smoothly from a center pull skein, and that the skein does not roll
around the way a ball of yarn does. Stranded knitting is also easier because
the skeins don’t tangle as much.
So beautifully wound! |
When I purchased the lace weight Jaggerspun Zephyr that I am using for my Queen Silvia’s wrap I was captivated by the perfectly put up
skeins. I knew the white yarn would stay
cleaner because there was no risk of it rolling around. I also find that intricate patterns are
easier to work with a center pull skein, because the yarn comes out so evenly.
Ready to pull center thread... |
Delighted with my purchase, I quickly went to Ravelry
to read all about my new yarn. ( Do you do that? I learn so much...)
Good thing I did. Ravelry is such a font of
information. I stumbled onto a thread
which was discussing something I now call the “ball collapse” syndrome. A center pull skein in very fine yarn unwinds
well at the beginning but can deflate and tangle once the center yarn is used
up. That sparked the memory from a few
years ago of another fragile merino lace weight yarn that became so hopelessly tangled that I finally
had to snip the yarn and purchase more. The merino fibers literally stuck together, and could not be separated with out damaging the threads. I did not have the time or patience to use any tried and true separating methods!
You would think that I should have remembered, especially because I clearly kept this as a warning! |
Needless to say, this time I
tucked the center end of yarn back in the middle and started working this shawl
with the yarn end from the outside of the skein. I keep it in a Ziploc bag so it is protected
as it rolls around. It is working out pretty well. But, I have to admit, every time the yarn
tightens up a little bit as I am working one of the countless nupps (bobbles)in
the pattern and I have to unwind the ball to keep the yarn slack, I have to
restrain myself from giving into the temptation of using the yarn from the center of the skein.
Have you ever had a pull skein of fine yarn collapse?
Wednesday, April 18, 2012
Thursday, April 12, 2012
Plan B
I always have a back up project ready for the times when I am in between designs and gift knitting, or unable to give an intricate project my full attention.
I try to select a pattern
that is challenging enough to capture my interest, yet rhythmic enough to not
require deep concentration. It needs to
be portable, so that it complements my peripatetic lifestyle. I always enjoy selecting the bag that will
house this project, because it will travel with me everywhere, and I am delighted
by bags that are the ideal mix of form and function.
Cotton lawn lining |
Queen Silvia Shawl Interweave Press 2008 |
I find the lure of hand dyed yarns irresistible, and as Elizabeth Zimmermann famously put forth in A Knitters Almanac, a shawl is perfect vacation knitting. Fetching triangular shawls do not seem to fit into my daily wardrobe so I chose this pattern based on its shape and simplicity. I am knitting this wrap in a neutral creamy white that I can foresee wearing over formal wear year round , or as a scarf with my dress coat in the winter. I purchased the yarn, Jaggerspun Zephyr on a scenic New England vacation from the Elegant Ewe in Concord, NH. I had the foresight to bring my copy of Nancy Bush’s Knitted Lace of Estonia book with me, as well as my compact selection of 24” inch circular Addi Turbos needles. I started the wrap in August, and have it ready to bring with me to every destination, from a lunch break to basketball practices to weekend trips. I work on it sporadically, and is often the case with my “travel knitting” I often knit happily while conversing, only to have to rip some of it out when I go home. It is a pleasure to work leisurely, with no deadline in sight, and I am enjoying this pattern tremendously. The bag is a tote I designed, sewed and embroidered years ago. It was packed away for ages, and when I recently came across it, I realized that it was the perfect size (7.75 x 9 inches) to tuck in my pocketbook. I have my project and yarn in a Ziploc bag for protection, and carry a crochet hook and a laminated copy I have made of the pattern. I also carry Post It notes to highlight the row I am working on. Although I have not made much progress, I always look forward to completing a row or two.
Do you have a Plan B project?
Thursday, April 5, 2012
My Constant Companion
Each trip requires planning and thought. Hot weather- cotton, or washable fine wool. City vacations- simple cables, as there is always time, but rarely good light. Sporting events- rhythmic mindless patterns. And, there must, of course, be room in the bag for any knitting treasures I may be fortunate enough to unearth in the delightful new stores I discover along the way. My favorite use for the GPS, and the iPhone is scouting out both a great restaurant and a great needlework/yarn shop immediately. I have perfected the art of packing my knitting for travel.
Wouldn't this be a marvelous time for a knitting trip?
Bergere de France
Hotel de Crillon, Paris
Laduree, Paris
Louvre, Paris
Chanel, Paris
* Pride and Prejudice by Jane Austen
Monday, April 2, 2012
My Latest Design
The Spring/Summer 2012 issue of Vogue Knitting is available in stores and online. I love summer knits, and especially enjoy making and wearing tank tops. They are so quick to finish and I wear them all year round, on their own or under a jacket. My Lace Insert Tank, garment # 21 is part of VK's beautifully photographed "A Midsummer Knit's Dream" story. It was a surprisingly quick knit, partially because the back is plain stockinette, and also because the sweater is worked at a comfortable 21sts and 28 rows to 4"/10cm. gauge.
If you visit the Vogue Knitting site, you can preview this sweater in the VK360 window. VK 360 is an absolutely amazing video feature that shows the garments on live models and highlights every possible detail. The Lace Insert Tank looks quite different on the VK 360, as the model is wearing a solid color camisole under the sweater.
Although the lace inset may look somewhat daunting, I can assure you that it is simple enough if you break it down into "digestible" pieces. I try to stack the odds in my favor before making any sweater. I always enlarge any graph I am working on, and make a few portable copies that I can mark on with a pencil or highlighter. Highlighter tape is especially wonderful for keeping track of rows. Post-its work well too. I also use stitch markers-I prefer the rubbery bendable type- to separate pattern repeats while I knit. I also find that knitting the pattern while I am making my gauge swatch helps me understand a graph better. It always takes a little bit of practice for me before the pattern feels logical. But, the finished lace project always makes all of that practice worthwhile.
If you like my latest project, you can view it (or favorite it, or queue it!) on Ravelry.
I love to see pictures of both works in progress and finished objects. Summer will be here before we know it, and a simple tank is a great and versatile piece.
" | |||||
Lace Insert Tank |
Although the lace inset may look somewhat daunting, I can assure you that it is simple enough if you break it down into "digestible" pieces. I try to stack the odds in my favor before making any sweater. I always enlarge any graph I am working on, and make a few portable copies that I can mark on with a pencil or highlighter. Highlighter tape is especially wonderful for keeping track of rows. Post-its work well too. I also use stitch markers-I prefer the rubbery bendable type- to separate pattern repeats while I knit. I also find that knitting the pattern while I am making my gauge swatch helps me understand a graph better. It always takes a little bit of practice for me before the pattern feels logical. But, the finished lace project always makes all of that practice worthwhile.
If you like my latest project, you can view it (or favorite it, or queue it!) on Ravelry.
I love to see pictures of both works in progress and finished objects. Summer will be here before we know it, and a simple tank is a great and versatile piece.
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